Aveda’s Recyclable Paper Sample Packet Replaces Multilayer Foil Sachets

Mutually beneficial testing and certifications

With certification of recyclability in mind, Xela Pack had already begun sending samples of its materials to at least one certifying body. The proprietary foil-less, paper-EVOH laminate that would eventually become the new Aveda sample pack format seemed most promising. Printed exterior and liner-laminated interior of the cards, loaded by magazine into the v/f/f/s.

But just to see where it stood, the packaging supplier also sent two of its pre-existing laminations for testing, both paper-foil-poly structures. One was a standard lamination that had remained virtually the same since Xela Pack’s inception 30 years ago, with some minor modifications along the way. The other, termed a “white recycled” material, uses 100% recycled paper—roughly 65% post-consumer, 35% post-industrial.

Xela Pack first sent the trio of materials to Western Michigan University (WMU), who Gentile says defines a well-recognized recycling certification standard for the U.S. In what the company views as a temporary setback, WMU found that the amount of material being recouped from these laminated constructions, at least in the U.S. stream, was a little less than what is required for certification. This was no major disappointment, rather a data point on a learning curve that has more to do with ratios of material weights and ratios—of EVOH to paper, for instance— than it does of either material’s true recyclability. Also reflected is the comparative robustness of European and American recycling infrastructure and adherence—we’re just not quite as far along in the U.S. Xela Pack is currently back at the drawing board, iteratively working toward those U.S.  tests and local standards.

“The plan is to be launching a new material that is certified recyclable in the U.S., as well as in the U.K. and Europe” adds Carolynn O’Connor, director of sales, Xela Pack. “We have, I think, realistic goals of making that happen this year.”

Validating recyclability in other regions was instrumental to Aveda, so it partnered with Xela to test the packages to see if they met UNI standards in Europe

“At that point, we really felt we were part of a great partnership. We had this material that we were working on, they helped guide us through getting it tested with their vast expertise and experience in the space.

“Most importantly, in the process we found out that this material that Aveda will be launching in—the paper-poly lamination—is in fact UNI-ready. It can be certified recyclable at this specific level for Europe and the U.K. With our partners at Aveda, we released this information in November 2021—it is the first certified recyclable non-foil Xela Packs ever that they’re launching in.”

Listen to this podcast on paper packaging, titled, "Is Paper the New Plastic?" where Sean Riley and Pat Reynolds discuss the momentum gathering behind paper-based packaging alternatives.

As luck would once again have it, UNI also said Xela Pack’s pre-existing laminations—both with foil layers, one nearly 30 years old, the other “white recycle”—also qualify to be UNI certified as recyclable. The partnership was indeed paying dividends for all parties.

“We are still working toward the ultimate goal of broad recyclability. And in the process, Aveda helped us find that this material can be certified in Europe, and they’re going to be the first to launch in it,” Gentile concludes of the relationship.

As launched in March, the finished, certified packaging structure is a 10-point C1S paperboard format, printed on one side, and coated on the other with 2.5 mil of EVOH. It’s actually a multi-poly lamination that uses EVOH for the barrier. Details on the tie layer remain proprietary.

“One of the things that was really amazing about Xela Pack is that they were as hungry as we are in developing something that was going to be luxurious, scalable, and with sustainability in mind,” Espinosa adds. “Working with the Xela Pack team has been very much of our collaboration and a joint development in that sense, understanding the values of each one of the companies and how can we bring both of our expertise together. And that’s one of the things that really drew us to working with them.”

Challenges along the way

Early conversations at Aveda centered around what would constitute the right paperboard that the brand should be using, how emissions that this packet is causing can be reduced, and more. Michael Christel, Director Packaging Sustainability, The Estée Lauder Companies, needed to know what the right weight, thickness, and color would be to ensure re-pulpability and recyclability of the packets. They also needed to ensure that, ultimately, the product itself would retain its high performance inside of these packets. All these competing considerations created challenges along the way. Formed packets being raised into the filling station.

“There were lots of iterations of the pack. We started with something that looked a lot simpler than where we ended up, and that was less customizable. We were more on the basics, like the material and what we thought was going to be compatible with some of our product formulas,” Christel says. “And then we started to build the luxury aspect into it. There have been some challenges that we and Xela Pack have been trying to solve. And that has made the process a very innovative one for both of us. Our original intention was to try to design in alignment with our 5R’s as well as circularity. And so, there have been multiple conversations, as well as tests and engagement of external third parties and experts in the field, for us to ensure that this was going to be recyclable, that we had the right materials, that this structure was the proper one, and obviously, that it was compatible with the product. Ultimately, not only were we elevating the packaging, but we were also elevating the consumer experience.”

Automating an all-new pack

An unnamed Xela Pack supplier converts the proprietary material into rollstock, after which it’s sent to a printer for decoration and die-cutting.

“It’s flexographically printed, and we can do up to seven colors,” O’Connor says. “We have different gloss and matte varnishes that we can use, or a combination of gloss and matte on the same packet.”

Die-cut magazines of 2-D sample pack blanks (or cards) are delivered to Xela Pack, to be run on GPM XP-FFS-5 vf/f/s equipment. This is an all-new piece of machinery for GPM, and while details about its formers are proprietary, they can be said to be “mandrel-style.” As each 2-D card enters the equipment via magazine, it is first embossed, then formed, and finally heat side-sealed. Depending on the application and size of the pack, the machine may use an opener as the pack travels to the filler to ensure the pack is ready to receive product. The final operation on the machine is heat top-sealing the finished product unit.

Speaking of product, the system can either use bellows or piston fillers, depending on the application. For Aveda products, like shampoos and conditioners that tend to be viscous, piston fillers tend to be the way to go, but bellows fillers are available for purely liquid applications. The system could also handle dry powders or single units like pills, but such product isn’t relevant to the Aveda application.

Secondary packaging is again application-dependent—unit packs could go into anything from corrugated master cases, to printed chip-board cartons that are more suited to retail—even retail-ready packaging.

Knock-on advantages over legacy foil sachets

“We were looking at not only designing the sample so it was recyclable, but also the structure of the sample to see what other potential environmental benefits we could tap into by using Xela’s innovative packet,” Espinosa says. This is why Aveda/ELC conducted a Life-cycle assessment. 

Regardless of how many ounces of sample material the legacy foil sachets may have been able to hold, they were largely considered single-use or single-dose. That’s because, once opened, there’s not much a consumer can do to store the 2-D, lay-flat packs. And more likely than not, a sachet will be ripped raggedly, thus no longer able to neatly contain its contents. Five finished packs counted by the machine’s sensors.

These new Aveda sample packs using Xela Pack tech have a gusseted bottom, thus they are 3-D structures. Xela Pack offers a format that can stand upright in a bathroom or shower setting, but Aveda opted not to use that version since these are intended to be one-use sample packs. Not only are the packs 3-D, but they feature a pack profile that includes a narrowing, neck-down portion that culminates in an embossed, tear-off, controlled orifice. The pack doesn’t reseal itself per se, but it does reclose itself mechanically in such a way that virtually precludes leakage. Dispensing requires 7 lbs. of direct pressure, so the freestanding pack will not leak, even after being opened. To open and use the sample packet, the consumer only needs to bend the closure flap along the embossed placeholder, tear it, use it, pinch it closed, and if there’s any left, save for later.

So essentially, the paper sample packet system more closely resembles a bottle than a sachet. If they chose to, consumers could use the contents one day, set it down in the shower, then use it again the following day with no product leakage, thanks to the controlled orifice that mechanically closes itself based on the shape and rigidity of the paperboard. The structure actually prevents air from entering the pack, even after opened, so it could sit in a shower for much longer than a day without any product degradation. Completed primary packaging packets, ejected through shoots and ready for secondary packaging that varies by application.

“The consumer experience is just much better than that of a foil pack,” O’Connor says. “We did a video where we had side-by-side consumers opening a foil sachet and a Xela Pack side by side, and it’s clear with the foil pack, they don’t have any control of how much product comes out. With the Xela Pack, you can control how much comes out, you can use a little at a time, and there’s no waste. Sustainability is very important to companies, but they also have to consider consumer experience. When giving a sample, that’s an extension of their brand, and bad experiences result in poor brand associations. And for ELC or Aveda, they have to make sure it lives up to their status as a prestige brand.”

Summarizes Edmond Irizarry, Aveda’s Executive Director, Global Package Development: “At Aveda, we understand the relevance of sampling our products in a sustainable way: in-line with our mission, and without compromise on product quality or consumer experience. I am extremely proud of our three-year development partnership with Xela Pack to deliver this breakthrough sampling innovation. We look forward to expanding this technology to other markets, brands, and categories in the near future.” PW